There is something undeniably magical about a big billowing steam train.
As it pulled into London Victoria, it was like a A-list celebrity had just walked in – commuters frantically scrabbled to get their phones out to take a photograph, whilst some ran from the other side of the station just to get a closer look.
I was lucky enough to be stepping on board for what Guildford-based railway company Steam Dreams describes as its Garden of England lunchtime tour – a fabulous five-hour journey through the Kent countryside.
First impressions
Following this flurry of excitement, I watched as smartly dressed members of the Steam Dreams team hopped out of the train and began positioning carpets in front of each of the train’s doors.
After being greeted warmly on one such carpet, stepping on board felt like stepping back in time; my hand slid across the beautiful wood panelling as I marvelled at the huge armchairs upholstered in thick vintage fabrics and soft cushions, curtained windows, and spacious tables beautifully laid with white linen, fresh flowers, twinkling glassware and pattered plates. Less than two minutes on board and I never wanted to leave.
We pulled out of Victoria at 10am promptly and left the modern world behind.
The journey
We passed through Wandsworth, Brixton, Clapham and beyond, before crossing the Kent border at Bromley. Soon, the views turned from grey to green and the carriage filled with the sound of corks popping.
Sparkling coup glasses were generously filled with incredibly delicious bubbles made exclusively for the train by French Champagne house, Hautbois, followed by a smattering of canapés – delicate smoked salmon pâté with caviar, and a lovely little tartlet topped with sweet tomatoes and a creamy English feta. All of this – and more – was served at a beautiful table for two by a team of keenly efficient and utterly charming staff.
Cutting eastwards, we chugged through the picturesque North Downs, crossing the River Medway. The vividly colourful views of the English countryside illuminated by summer sunshine were staggeringly beautiful.
In-between admiring the views and the sumptuous interiors, there was also a well-designed booklet to study, which outlines all the details of the route and what to look out for, as well as a map and some fascinating facts about the train’s historic engine.
On we rumbled, passing through tunnels and over bridges, occasionally catching the delicious scent of coal and hearing the odd joyful ‘toooot toooot’ through the carriage’s open windows.
The incredible food (starters)
The fine dining menu served in the Pullman carriage is inspired by the route, hence the delicious south coast crab rillette starter. It came with a deliciously fresh new potato and spring onion salad, a silky saffron and citrus emulsion, and pops of pickled radish and dressed shoots.
The drinks menu is equally impressive in terms of both quality and choice, covering beers, spirits, dessert and fortified wines, soft drinks and more. If you’re dining in one of the Pullman carriages then a bottle of house wine is included, but you can also ‘upgrade’ it for an extra charge, should you wish. Bottles start at just £21 (for house) and go up to £90, whilst the delicious house Champagne will set you back £55, or £12 by the glass.
We chose a bottle of 2022 Domaine de la Motte Chablis (£49), and it was perfect.
The train itself
About halfway into our adventure through time we stopped at Canterbury East so that our trusty engine could take on more water, and so that we could stretch our legs. I took the opportunity to walk along the platform up to the very front of the train so that I could marvel at the spectacular, steaming locomotive up close.
We were being hauled by the 70000 Britannia, completed in 1951 and famous for pulling the funeral train of King George VI from Norfolk to London following his death in February 1952 at Sandringham House. Capable of reaching speeds up to 100mph, this magnificent machine also hauled The Royal Train from Preston to Wakefield in January 2012. I gave her hot body a gentle pat and thanked her for her hard work.
Strolling back, I passed through the three classes available on board, each in their own dedicated vintage carriage. There is Pullman Dining (from £225), First Class (from £145) and Premium Standard (from £85), as well as a brand-new bar carriage called The Hippocrene, exclusively for First Class passengers.
Time for the main course
Safely ensconced in the serene luxury of the Pullman carriage once more, we left Canterbury’s famous Cathedral behind, and the main course was served.
The sweet smell of mint sauce filled the carriage as meat-eaters happily tucked into a duo of Kent Downs lamb; roast rump and braised shoulder, whilst I enjoyed a perfectly cooked piece of cod, with a deliciously earthy celeriac puree, English asparagus, baby heritage carrot, and kale. It was all doused in a light, silky cream sauce, with some delightfully crisp new potatoes and a glass of chilled Chablis on the side. Heaven.
Racing past rolling green fields, rows of hops and meadows of wildflowers, the train then climbed up the southernly tip of the Kent Downs before descending to meet the sea at Dover, steaming away beneath the famous White Cliffs. What a thrill it was to chug alongside the twinkling blue Channel in a steam train!
Pudding and the end to an amazing trip
We then veered inland and started to head northwards, cutting across the heart of Kent to Tonbridge before passing through Sevenoaks. I sensed London ebbing ever closer, but thankfully there was still the joy of pudding to come.
And what a joy it was – a truly scrumptious Kentish apple and vanilla tart, with vanilla cream, apricot glaze and fresh lemon balm. The pastry was perfect, and the sweetness of the apple paired exceptionally well with a nip of delicious Armagnac…
Fresh coffee and some pleasingly rich chocolate truffles provided one final treat before reality beckoned. Just as we had flown through the handsome Kent countryside, so had the time.
Soon, it was 3.15pm and our unforgettable adventure had come to an end. I reluctantly stepped off the train and waved it goodbye like an old friend. Re-entering the hustle and bustle of Victoria station, the day’s exquisitely luxurious and wonderfully nostalgic bubble promptly burst. Still on a high however, I floated though the station, already plotting when I could get my next steam train fix.
Thankfully, Steam Dreams host various outings throughout the year, including the Sunset Steam Express (an evening dinner journey through the stunning Surrey Hills) – and adventures further afield to the likes of Bath, Yorkshire and beyond. All aboard, I say!
Both the Garden of England lunchtime tour and the Sunset Steam Express run most Tuesdays until 20 August. Visit steamdreams.co.uk for more details and to book.
