Can golf ever be truly sustainable? Samantha Laurie visits one luxury resort that’s right on course...
Living in Surrey and being of, ahem, a certain age, it seems something of an oversight to have never played golf. So an invitation to one of France’s premier golfing destinations – Terre Blanche in the hills of Provence – as it picks up one of the sport’s highest accolades for environmental awareness, is an opportunity too good to miss. The promise of a Michelin-starred restaurant, five-star spa and degustation of the neighbouring chateau’s finest rosé naturally helps swing it.
Still, as a non-golfer, can I really appreciate the finer details of one of Europe’s most prestigious golf resorts? Turns out I can. Because Terre Blanche’s principal charm is something I hadn’t expected: a glorious sense of wilderness.
Built 20 years ago by German software billionaire, SAP founder and avid golfer Dietmar Hopp, the resort has put nature-friendly at the core of its 750 acres. As the only recipient of the highest eco-rating in the French National Golf for Biodiversity programme, its two 18-hole championship courses are on a mission to attract new and ever more diverse wildlife. Over the past few years, the land team has eliminated all pesticides, built bat hotels for its 15 resident species and installed a team of donkeys to keep the undergrowth at bay.
On the waterfront – key to golf’s green cred – the fairways and roughs have been replanted with drought-resistant Bermuda grass (50% less thirsty than regular grass). Even more impressive, the courses are irrigated entirely by lake and rainwater courtesy of a series of tunnels connecting to nearby Lac de Saint-Cassien.
Rare birds are returning, among them the glossy black ibis that casually pecks its way across our path. Nor is this back-to-nature feel confined to the courses. The resort’s 115 villas and suites are tucked out of sight with private terraces facing into woodland; a magnificent infinity pool juts out over the surrounding forests and olive groves, and a fleet of e-bikes is on call to help guests explore the local terrain, hilly home to much of the country’s finest rosé.
All of which makes for a wonderfully restful retreat. Add in four restaurants, a stunning spa and fitness centre and the proximity of the French Riviera – a mere 20-mile jaunt away – and you could easily lose a few days here without even unpacking your clubs.
But these two courses are among the best in Europe – Le Chateau ranks 12th, says Golf World – complete with an elite team and an academy that trains the French junior squad. How can I leave without giving it a go?
Naturally, I’m not allowed to carve up the prized greens on my first outing, so I spend the morning at the training centre and driving range with its 64 bays and mission control-style tracking tech. And soon, under the brilliant tutelage of Arnaud, I’m checking my carry and apex like a pro. A new passion is born.
Time at last, perhaps, to join my local club. Let’s hope it’s a wild one.
What's on offer?
Dining delights
Terre Blanche has four restaurants, with Michelin-starred Le Faventia the standout. Executive chef Christophe Schmitt offers a four- or six-course tasting menu (165/195€), with highlights such as red mullet with fennel black garlic and guinea fowl and morels, served with a spear of asparagus so delicious it almost steals the show.
Art & culture
I have never seen a hotel with so much stunning modern sculpture. Hopp’s wildly valuable private collection is dotted throughout the gardens, dining rooms and corridors (pick up a guide from the concierge). There’s even an Antony Gormley crouched man at the entrance.
Bike & bites
A must is an e-bike tour of the surrounding olive groves, vineyards, and medieval villages. The lovely local chateau serves lunch and cheese, wine, and olive oil tastings.
Relax
Light, airy, heated, bubbly, steamy and salty: however you like your spa, you’re sorted. The outdoor heated Jacuzzi is something else.
Nippers
Not all golf resorts welcome kids with such genuine gusto. Here, the well-equipped kids club comes with its pool and golf tournament.
Rose de Mai
The soil in this region is famous for growing plants for the perfume industry. None more precious than the Rose de Mai, grown nearby by one of the world’s most exclusive suppliers, Clos de Callian.
It takes five tonnes of it to make a single kilo of essence, and it’s so fragile that it can only be used if picked early in the morning of the same day. If you’re there in May or early June, ask for a sneaky peek into this fascinating world.
Deluxe suites from 480€ BB per night; villas 810€ BB per night. Nice airport is 45 mins away; or take the train to Saint-Raphaël-Valescure (approx eight hours from London). See terre-blanche.com.
