SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel Review
Grace Graham-Taylor visits Schloss Roxburghe Hotel in the Scottish borders for a weekend of relaxation, fine dining and country sports.
As we pull out of the long, sheltered driveway to the Schloss Roxburghe hotel, I temporarily forget what era I’m in. The grand 18th-century manor looks out imperiously over the lawn, so well kept it feels ageless, and for a moment, I half expect to see Georgian aristocrats wandering out of the trees.
I’m brought back to reality by a fleet of pristine golf buggies parked along the tarmac drive, shining like blue beetles in the Scottish sun.
The sense of being suspended in time adds to the hotel's other escapist qualities.
Here, nature is prelapsarian, anything not cooked to your idea of perfection is immediately redone without fuss, and any dissatisfaction is taken care of by an attentive staff member - likely someone young, charming and dressed in tweed. It is very hard to be stressed in these circumstances.
Antonio Cuellar
The grounds
As I stroll around the manicured grounds, past delicate fountains and moon-shaped hedges, everybody seems blissed out, dazed by relaxation.
Over by the spa, people float in the infinity pool, which is tropically heated even in winter and turquoise like a Bahamian sea.
"Everybody seems blissed out, dazed by relaxation"
Antonio Cuellar
Sprawled over more than 300 acres of land, Schloss Roxburghe and its grounds were once the private retreat of the Duke of Roxburghe, a place to practise leisurely pursuits and entertain guests. Now under the proprietorship of Destination by Hyatt, the stately home has been updated for modern times.
A recent £85 million renovation has doubled its capacity, furnishing it with state-of-the-art spa facilities and a new restaurant.
Throughout, the interiors reflect a dance between the historic and the now; heavy baroque furniture is offset by elegant floral displays, refined colour schemes and clean, modern lighting.
The balance between old and new means guests can choose their rooms according to taste. Those who like a traditional aesthetic will prefer the old house, with its boutique-style rooms having enormous four-posters and lush, maximalist wallpapers.
The rooms
For those who lean towards the contemporary, the sleeker, more minimalist rooms are in the newly-built extension. This is where I stayed, sleeping incredibly well on a comfortable king-sized bed, scoffing complimentary macaroons, and spending environmentally unfriendly time in the high-pressure shower.
Elsewhere, a row of cottages offers a private, homelike experience, catering to families or larger groups.
With 16 categories of rooms to choose from, there's sure to be something to suit any preference.
Sports
Though a very good place to laze around and do nothing, the hotel’s main attraction is country sports. A spectacular golf course takes up much of the grounds, its 18th hole offering views of the sweeping hills and adjacent river.
Guests can try their hand at archery, trout fishing and even clay pigeon shooting, all under the expert stewardship of gamesmen Eoin Fairgrieve and Malcolm Douglas.
"The hotel’s main attraction is country sport"
Lack of experience is no barrier to success - affable, avuncular, and possessed with Herculean patience for the uncoordinated, these two men can make even the clumsiest person feel capable.
At the trout-fishing loch, I limply held the rod whilst Eoin, a former world champion angler, flicked the line with surgical precision, assuring me all the while that I was doing great.
It felt like forcing Beethoven to teach me to play Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, but through his sheer determination, we did catch a trout. Later, in Sunlaws Restaurant, I ate it, and it was delicious.
The dining experience
This farm (or lake) to table approach is a defining feature of the Roxburghe dining experience. Their food is almost entirely sourced from the local area, some coming directly from allotments on the hotel grounds.
While Charlie’s restaurant offers more casual fare, suitable for breakfast, lunches, and relaxed dinners, Sunlaws is all fine dining.
At Sunlaws, you’ll be treated to a seven-course meal, each dish more flavoursome than the last and perfectly paired with wine.
The kitchen is helmed by Ban Pankaj, who is Nepalese, and whose menu combines simple ingredients with sophisticated, nuanced flavours, each plate complex without being fussy.
Special mention goes out to our server, Max Thomas, who was absurdly good at his job given his age (19), and more than willing to accommodate any requests.
After dinner, I recommend the intimate wood-panelled bar next door, 1718, where you can try one of the many whiskies they offer amongst low-slung armchairs and shelves of thick 18th-century almanacs.
One thing I considered when staying at the Roxburghe was whether it would be good for kids. Though young teenagers can easily participate in the sports activities, smaller children - say between the ages of 3 and 10 - may struggle for things to do unless they have a precocious interest in beauty regimens or golf.
That said, I’m told the hotel is planning to introduce a children’s entertainment area in the near future, and in the meantime, the grounds offer plenty of space to play.
Overall, the Schloss Roxburghe offers respite from life’s exhausting antagonism. If there’s one thing I took away from my stay, it was a prolonged sense of calm.
Virginia Woolf once described stately homes as “comfortably padded lunatic asylums”. I know she meant this disparagingly, but the analogy with a sanitorium might not be such a bad thing.
Hurtling back to London on a packed-out, clammy express train, the small break from the mess and madness of the city felt curative – I weaved through the pavements of Kings Cross that evening feeling full, rested and happy.
Rooms from £311 // GRAND OPENING OFFER: King Bed Estate Room from £234
To book, visit: https://www.schlosshotel-roxburghe.com/en