Is there anyone out there who doesn’t love Lisbon? Samantha Laurie finds out why the travel cognescenti have fallen in love with Portugal’s waterfront capital
First night, fresh from the airport and we are standing outside Cervejaria Ramiro, Lisbon's best-known seafood bar and a must-visit says absolutely everyone. In a country famed for the highest fish consumption in Europe, where better to start?
Outside a large crowd of slightly bewildered tourists are trying to fathom out the wait and queue system. There are no staff on the door – just a ticket dispenser and a screeching automated voice calling out table numbers. After an hour's wait, my husband starts pacing and scrolling for alternatives. It’s not the most auspicious start to a weekend of promised gastro delights.
Lisbon's Lavish Food Scene
Thankfully we persist and once inside it’s a revelation: waiters dash in and out of the kitchen with still wriggling lobsters carried high over the formica tables. Huge whole edible crabs are served with a mallet. Steaming platters of delicious smelling seafood are dished up quickly and simply – most accompanied with just buttered toast and wine. So unfussy is the menu that one of the starters is actually a bag of crisps. This is all about the seafood.
Off-footed by a menu priced by the kilo, we order clams, garlic shrimps … and six giant tiger prawns to share. Fortunately, the waiter cools our jets and insists we start with one apiece.
When they arrive they’re the size of a toddler’s limbs, giant pink crusts split open to reveal oodles of delicious buttery flesh. Each weighs in at over a quarter of a kilo and costs 20 euros apiece. Ramiro may look cheap, but good fish is good fish. They are easily the best prawns I've ever eaten.
"Lisbon is a city full of such food and drink highlights”
Lisbon is a city full of such food and drink highlights – Belem for the ultimate custard tarts; Bifanas de Afonso for a pork steak sandwich marinated in garlic and wine and prepared in front of you in a café window overlooking Rua da Madalena; A Ginjaha, a tiny standing-room-only bar for a glass of the country’s iconic knock-your-socks off sour cherry liquor; and a plethora of neighbourhood restaurants serving consistently good food with lashings of slightly sparkling vinho verde (menus here differentiate between young “green” wines and mature “maduro” wines).
Like its Iberian cousins Malaga and Palma de Mallorca, Lisbon has gone from being a travel hub and gateway to the beaches to a destination city for food and culture vultures.
Like its Iberian cousins, Malaga and Palma de Mallorca, Lisbon has gone from being a travel hub and gateway to the beaches to a destination city for food and culture vultures. A stylish renovation of the city’s run-down industrial heartland has seen the birth of a whole new food and culture district known as LX Factory and down by the riverfront, the once neglected historic market is now a Time Out branded food hall, bustling with street food, fresh market produce and cooking classes.
There’s so much excellent food here that were it not for the city’s fat-busting hills, you’d be lucky to come home the same size you left.
History and Heritage Highlights
We are staying at As Janelas Verdes, literally ‘the green windows’, a beautiful 29-room heritage hotel housed in an 18th-century palace, half an hour’s walk from the centre in a quiet neighbourhood known as Lapa.
Once home to Eça de Queiros, the 19th-century Portuguese novelist, the hotel is full of period charm with its wood-panelled rooms, winding stairways, a walled courtyard garden curtained by a climbing fig and a delightful third-floor library with a decked veranda overlooking the Tagus river.
One of a small chain of historic hotels, the hotel offers guests free entry into many of the city’s museums, including the excellent National Ancient Art Museum located next door and the rather more famous Gulbenkian Museum and Garden on the other side of town.
There are other nice touches too – a complimentary decanter of port in the rooms, pastries and coffee all day on the ground floor and a much-appreciated ‘guest kitchen’ with tea, coffee, snacks and an honesty bar available 24/7 alongside the library.
We’ve four days to fill and three pages of recommendations from friends and foodies. But as always, the best inside knowledge comes from our walking tour guide, Gabriel of Guru Tours, whose tips come thick and fast: buy ginjayha (the cherry liquor) from the grandmothers who sell on the main square; get a Viva Card from the metro and use it to ‘zap’ your ticket on the metro, bus, train and tram; head to Miradoura Senhora do Monte near the castle for superb sunset views and the 8th-floor café of the Pollux department store for dramatic views over the city and a rather tasty house white.
Amidst this, Gabriel delivers some impressive historical nuggets: Lisbon is the second-oldest European capital city (after Athens), predating other modern European capitals by centuries. First settled by Phoenicians, then Romans and Moors, the city was an extravagance of riches – the hub of European commerce – during the empire-building reign of Vasco da Gama.
All that changed in 1755 when a massive earthquake destroyed 85% of the city. It struck on All Saints Day when many in this deeply religious society were in church; thousands died running to the river which appeared to be parting biblically only to be engulfed by the tsunami that followed.
One of the few areas spared was Alfama, once the red light area, today a glorious blend of narrow medieval streets, quirky cafes, clattering trams and some of the best azulejos – the decorative tiles that adorn every facade from churches to train stations and homes.
A large part of its charm is that real life continues here: kids play in the streets, families cook dinner in doorways, you can even catch the hum of traditional music from the many fado clubs in the area.
After three days of sightseeing and bar hopping, it’s time for something completely different – a lino-printing workshop. Artist Tom Maryniak left the UK four years ago to run print-making and painting classes (lisboasocialpress.com) with fellow artist Jilly Roberts from a sunny studio in the centre of town. Like many creatives, he was drawn to the climate – 300 days of sunshine a year – and a cost of living lower than most Western European capitals.
The two now offer art therapy, as well as social painting events and even stretch and sketch, combining yoga with art. The aim is to encourage people to slow down, reflect and open up creative valves that may not have been accessed since childhood, says Tom.
In this city of tiles, inspiration is everywhere and an afternoon spent learning how to carve, position and print cards and Lino graphs, all the while chatting to someone who knows the city well is pure joy.
Sintra's Seasoned Sights
On the last day, we head out on the train to Sintra, 28 miles northwest of the city and a lush hilltop town full of fairytale castles and grand imposing villas. For centuries a favourite of nobles, poets and writers for its cooler climate, Sintra is full of extraordinary palaces, convents and gardens, most of which you can see on foot.
One of the highlights is Quinta de Regaleira, an elaborate estate created by an Italian opera set designer for a wealthy landowner with a large wallet and a healthy appetite for architectural whimsy.
Sintra is a very popular tourist spot – and the historic centre can be a throng of visitors – but there are good walks from here and some quieter places to eat away from the crowds.
We eat at Tasca, a small tapas bar close to the train station, which by 1pm has only three items left on its already small menu: bean soup, cod fritters and chickpea salad. All are absolutely delicious. It’s a fitting end to a short break long on food, drink and cultural highs. We’ll be back!
Additional info:
As Janelas Verdes: rooms start from €115 including breakfast; lisbonheritagehotels.com
For art and printing workshops, from €40 for three hours; lisboasocialpress.com
For unbeatable seafood: cervejariaramiro.com – it’s worth the wait!
Janelas Verdes Hotel
Lunch at...
Floresta das Escandinhas Insta@florestadasescadinhas
Despite being slapbang in the middle of the tourist area, this tiny restaurant with its tables packed cheek by jowl is authentic to its core. The menu is simple and short – fish, cheese, and one meat dish – prices are very affordable and the service is delightful.
We had the special – a mixed plate of swordfish, dorado, salmon and a delicious sweet tasting fish called croaker, served with new potatoes in butter (Portuguese love their butter), wine and water – for just 30 euros for two.
