The Portrait Restaurant, London review
Impressive food with a view - the new restaurant from acclaimed Irish chef Richard Corrigan at London’s National Portrait Gallery.
London’s world-famous National Portrait Gallery finally reopened its doors earlier this year following a three-year closure and the most extensive transformation of the building since 1896, but it’s not just its staggering art collection that’s drawing the crowds.
Up on the fourth floor, acclaimed Irish chef and restaurateur Richard Corrigan has opened a new dining destination.
Building on the success of his existing restaurants – many of which are London stalwarts (Bentley’s, Corrigan’s Mayfair and more) - his latest venture is aptly called The Portrait.
As the lift doors glide open, interiors are immediately gorgeous – there are modern tapestry walls, bronze casts, a few carefully placed plants, and cosy, booth style seating crafted from smooth pale wood, and adding to the sheer beauty of the place is the view. Wow wee.
As a born and bred Londoner you’d have thought that I might have grown accustomed to the capital’s sights, but the views from The Portrait had me reeling like a tourist. Sweeping across London’s historic skyline, dotted with domes and towering spires, I don’t think there is anywhere else in the city where you can eat eye-to-eye Horatio Nelson, with Big Ben’s familiar clock face glowing in the distance. It is nothing short of magical.
Shaken, not stirred
Richard Corrigan’s newest restaurant has been incredibly well received since its summer opening, but there is one particular item on the menu that has been making waves; the salt and vinegar martini. Created by the restaurant’s inventive bar manager, Manuel Criscuolo, it is a deliciously salty slightly dirty creation combined with a nostalgic hit of vinegar and an excellent boozy kick. It certainly lived up to the hype and I would return for it alone.
The restaurant promises ‘Irish hospitality’ (Corrigan is renowned for being a terrific host– his St Patrick’s Day parties are legendary) and a seasonal changing menu featuring a selection of beloved and sometimes overlooked British and Irish fish and shellfish delicacies, alongside a range of meats and seasonal game specialties.
Corrigan is known for his hearty, unpretentious and deeply satisfying dishes, and after just a quick glance at the menu, I wanted to order everything.
The menu
Torn between the Cornish mackerel with tomato, avocado and dashi cream, and the burrata with peach, fennel and pistachio, I instead went for the pumpkin soup with brandy cream and native lobster, and I am pleased that I did.
The soup was flawlessly creamy and perfectly, subtly flavoursome, lifted by a Christmas Day kick of boozy brandy cream and hefty chunks of sweet, buttery lobster. It’s one of the best things I’ve eaten in a very long time. The Carlingford oysters, topped with ginger, lime and coriander, were also superb.
The break between courses allowed more time to admire the spectacular views (do ask for a table by the window if you are two – half of the larger booth-style seats also face the window) and have a chat the charismatic Manuel about his plans for future cocktails.
A hearty bowl of tagliatelle, girolles, truffle and Pecorino arrived next – decadent comfort food at its best, best enjoyed with a chilled glass of Chablis.
Mains were similarly rich and satisfying – a well-cooked piece of halibut came in a velvety lobster bone broth topped with a slightly grainy pepper rouille and chunks of smoky squid. The star of the show for me was a perfectly steamed sole, stuffed with a diced girolle and miso mixture, and then covered in more meaty girolles, herbs, sea aster and plenty of butter. It was mouth watering stuff.
On the side – a nothing-short-of-perfect bowl of silky smooth olive oil mash, and a plate of well-cooked greens curiously overpowered by rosemary, but this was a just mere detail in the grand, delicious scheme of things.
A gorgeous rum baba came next – a few slices of underripe pineapple let it down slightly and it could have done with a bit more cream (always), but it was liberally doused in booze so I can’t complain really.
Both the views and the food were a joy to behold and left me wanting more, as did the buzzy ambience, elegant interiors and friendly service. I plan to return for lunch next time so that I can eyeball Horatio in the daylight, plus Manuel tells me that he has plans for a Parmesan martini next, which has definitely got my name on it…
The Portrait Restaurant, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London, WC2H 0HE.
Book online at https://www.theportraitrestaurant.com/
Opening hours
Sunday to Tuesday
Lunch 12 pm – 5:30 pm (last sitting at 3:30 pm)
Wednesday to Saturday
Lunch: 12 pm – 2:45 pm (last sitting at 2:30 pm)
Dinner: 5 pm – 10:30 pm (last sitting at 8:15 pm)
