Sticks’n’Sushi, Kingston Review
Founded in Copenhagen in 1994, Sticks’n’Sushi opened their first UK restaurant in Wimbledon 11 years ago.
Joining its 12 sites in Copenhagen and further three in Berlin, its latest outpost has recently opened in Kingston, and it’s the group’s largest restaurant to date.
Located in the Bentall’s Centre on the corner of Wood Street and Clarence Street, it’s a cavernous 220 cover space set across two floors. Filled with long tables and sit up bars, an open kitchen and lots of energetic staff dashing around in slogan t-shirts, it’s immediately reminiscent of a Wagamama.
The food offering, curiously, is Danish-Japanese, and the serene interiors reflect this; tables are covered in mottled grey leather and topped with a simple pebble for resting chopsticks; hip Danish brand Hay are responsible for the minimalist furniture; single black spotlights hang from the ceiling whilst grey glass lamps and piles of design books create space between tables and a sense of intimacy. It’s a clever and pleasing mix of Japanese minimalism and Scandinavian chic.
First impressions
As per the brand’s name, the offering is a mixture of sushi and freshly grilled yakitori sticks ‘with a Nordic touch’, although I am still not entirely sure what that touch is.
Generally speaking, menus featuring photographs of the dishes on offer are a a bit of a no-no for me, but the imagery within Sticks’n’Sushi’s sleek black booklet is so beautiful and enticing that it made me want to order everything.
Thankfully, our friendly and efficient waitress was on hand to explain that the most popular dishes include hotate ceviche - scallops with miso, chilli, coriander, red onion, celery and tiger’s milk, and the ebi bites - tempura shrimp, miso aïoli, chilli, lime and coriander. There’s also a good-looking sashimi selection, plenty of mouth-watering sushi and a vast choice of the aforementioned sticks, which include the likes of beef fillet with miso herb butter, goat’s cheese wrapped in cured ham, and Argentinian red shrimp with a spicy gochujang and garlic butter.
If you’re feeling flash, there’s also a very reasonably priced 10g tin of Exmoor Caviar on the menu (£21), or you can have it with Japanese wagyu, spring onion, kizami wasabi and lotus chips (£32).
Food highlights
If, like me, you’re easily overwhelmed by choice, fear not – there’s a choice of set menus serving one, two or more, which offer a mixture of sushi, sides, and sticks. I plumped for the ‘Carpe Diem’ (£93 for two people) which was both generous and delicious for the most part.
Highlights included a bowl of perfectly cooked broccoli that had been grilled in soy and topped with toasted sesame seeds and spicy goma – a creamy and flavoursome Japanese sauce.
The tuna tartare bites were also delicious – canapé-sized discs of crispy flat bread topped with buttery soft tuna, avocado, sesame, miso, yuzu and spring onion. I also hoovered up the pretty-as-a-perfect shake carpaccio – a plate of thin slices of salmon sashimi, topped with a dollop of tasty miso aïoli, trout roe, chives, daikon and lime marinade.
The sticks were a mixed bag and probably best ordered à la carte so you can choose the ones you want – the salmon, teriyaki and spring onion was good, whereas the padron peppers, with spicy gochujang, tsume and lime sauce, felt like an unsuccessful vegetarian option.
By comparison, the various maki rolls were much better, and the sides were also fresh and moreish – particularly the edamame doused liberally in a spicy miso and sesame sauce. I also enjoyed the kani korokke / crab croquettes with wasabi Caesar – they were hot, light and crisp, but perhaps not as crabby as I would have liked them...
Compared to the main menu, the pudding offering is simple yet effective. There are just four options (plus three ice cream flavours) and they are all small, taster-sized portions priced at £3.50 each or four for £12. The matcha financier, made with marzipan, matcha and oozing dark chocolate was absolutely delicious, as was the straightforward vanilla crème brûlée.
Drinks-wise there’s a good choice of wine, beer, warming sake, and delicate Japanese teas, but it was the cocktail menu that won me over. I had an incredibly good whisky miso sour (£13.50), expertly made with Toki Japanese whisky, peach liquor, lemon juice, egg white, honey and miso, served in a chunky stone tumbler.
All in all, it may not seem like the most obvious pairing, but it seems that Sticks’n’Sushi’s unique Danish-Japanese offering is a recipe for success.
Open now. Sticks’n’Sushi Kingston, The Bentall Centre, Wood St & Clarence St, Kingston-upon-Thames KT1 1TP. Book online at sticksnsushi.com/en
