The French Table
85 Maple Rd, Surbiton KT6 4AW
A firm favourite of foodies for miles around, Catherine Whyte enjoys an evening of Parisian elegance at The French Table in Surbiton...
Good restaurants are like good friends. You know they are there, but you don’t always make the effort to see them as often as you should. That might go some way to explain why I haven’t been to The French Table in Surbiton for such a long time.
It’s a crime on my part, really. This boutique family-run eatery along Surbiton’s leafy Maple Road has been one of the locale’s best since it opened its doors some 15 years ago. We went on a Tuesday and it was packed – testament to its excellent reputation and many endorsements by the likes of Harden’s and the AA; it has two rosettes and was a recipient of an AA notable Wine List award in 2016.
Expect French cuisine with flair. Indeed, everything is exquisite, even down to the Laguoile knives with their pretty bee motifs on the handles. I knew we were in trouble when we had to hold ourselves back from devouring too much of the amazing home baked breads – a choice of wholegrain, chorizo or cheese – that arrived at the start of the meal. Gluten-free breads are available, too.
When I asked about vegetarian options, it was extremely refreshing to be offered a choice beyond what was written on the menu (I went off-piste and chose the cucumber gazpacho). For me, that willingness to be flexible is so important.
My partner, aka The Big Man, also went for one of the specials, an unusual dish of smoked eel, caviar, courgette cannelloni and ricotta mousse with a carrot and ginger sponge. What an unusual and creative dish it was.
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Salt baked kohirabi
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5 of 5
Likewise, our mains were faultless. My summer Provançal confit vegetables with figs and black olive dressing was light but replete with the season’s riches. The Big Man had the assiette of lamb, comprising three cuts (rack, saddle and slow cooked shoulder) and accompanied by a divine homemade tagliatelle carbonara, girolles and artichoke puree. If I tell you that the shoulder alone was cooked for five hours, then mixed with lamb sauce, butter ras el hanout and then rolled into a ballotine, you’ll be able to appreciate the work that went into just this one dish!
Don’t even get me started on desserts, which matched the other courses for style and sophistication. All in all, the meal was fantastic value at £45 for three courses. There’s also a tasting menu (£52, or an extra £30 for wine pairing), as well as lunch and breakfast menus, too.
As you’d expect the staff were extremely professional and cheery. I heard one of the waitresses advising the table next door against blind-ordering one bio-dynamic wine. Sure enough, after he had tasted it (I think that particular wine had been chosen to accompany a certain course on the tasting menu), he agreed whole-heartedly and ordered another. That’s good service for you.
The only thing that lets the place down is the interior - hence the four stars as opposed to five. It’s a tad dour for my tastes and a bit poky, but there was a good atmosphere in there nevertheless.
When you go, you’ll undoubtedly meet Sarah, who runs this successful independent with her husband Eric Guignard. It was great to listen to her talk about their journey as a couple and to hear her passion for the restaurant business. When you’ve just heard the news that Tony Tobin has decided to close his Reigate restaurant The Dining Room citing competition from chains as a cause, it’s comforting to know that some Surrey independents continue to thrive.
- To book a table visit: thefrenchtable.co.uk. Make sure you also visit their sister restaurant The White Onion in Wimbledon, or indeed their two successful cafes/boulangeries The French Tarte (one next door to the restaurant and the other in Teddington), or their Tarte in the Park café in Victoria Park, also in Surbiton.
