No 97
97 Maple Rd, Surbiton KT6 4AW
Fun, fun, and more fun. What an enjoyable night we had at No 97 – a gin bar, restaurant and terrace in Surbiton.
It’s a classy joint, but the vibe is so, so friendly. It’s the perfect ‘neighbourhood restaurant’, where the owners mingle with the customers, who – in turn – chat happily to each other.
What’s more, the food is tip-top. And, there’s gin. Lots of gin (I counted 57 on the menu – mostly artisan brands that can’t be found in mainstream supermarkets), plus a host of gin-based cocktails. If that wasn’t enough, there’s a dedicated gin bar downstairs.
The only trouble is, I’m not a big gin fan. But co-owner Sam Berry was having none of that. He whipped up a couple of G&Ts with a spanking difference. Mine – Brockmans – was sweet, garnished with raspberries, cucumbers and pink peppercorns. Quite a revelation – and delicious. The Big Man’s was dry (Cotswolds) – right on the opposite edge of the spectrum to mine – served with Fever-Tree tonic and a grapefruit garnish.
“It’s so dry, it’s a wonder it can still be a liquid,” he said.
Geoff Sage
We sat at the bar, in what Sam describes as ‘the chef’s seats’. I could tell that The Big Man wasn’t happy about the prospect of spending the evening teetering on a bar stool, but – by the end of the meal – we appreciated the method in Sam’s ‘madness’. This was so much more fun. We had a bird’s eye view of the open kitchen, bantered with the Lawrence the sous chef, and chatting about the history of gin, Brexit and Spanish Rioja to the bartender.
No 97 has been open for less than a year. In that time, Sam and his team have been perfecting the offer. They’ve moved away from serving tapas-style dishes – hence the eating-at-bar layout – settling on a more conventional one, two or three-course fine dining format.
It seems to have been the right decision. No.97’s has built up a solid reputation amongst locals, who keep coming back – it was busy the night we were there, despite it being mid-week.
Sam and his team make no secret of the fact that they are aiming for AA rosettes. I hope they get them. The flavours were playful and the presentation impeccable. Sous-chef Lawrence worked with Kenneth Culhane at The Dysart and the influence was obvious in the use of heritage ingredients such as the Crapaudine beetroot – one of the oldest varieties and elongated in shape (I only know this because he brought one out to show us).
The menu is unapologetically small (four choices for each course) with one course costing £16.95, two £21.95 and three at £26.95. It is extremely good value especially when you take into account that the meal is prefaced by a delightful tray of canapes, followed by a selection of breads (one of which was made with IPA from The Antelope’s own brew) with Himalayan Pink Salt and caramelised onion butter, and rounded off with a gorgeous plate of petit fours after pudding.
To give you an idea of the food, the mains ranged from roasted pork shoulder, chorizo, manchego and cauliflower gratin to pan-fried hake, squid ink risotto, grilled octopus and inca tomato. Likewise desserts: Seville orange cheesecake, with white chocolate and brown butter or ice cream chocolate truffle cake, with banana, peanut and Pedro Ximenez. Your taste buds will thank you, I promise.
No 97 keeps good company here in Surbiton. If you’ve never been, you should make the trip. Maple Road has become a micro-destination in its own right, thanks to the long-term presence of The Antelope pub and The French Tarte (amongst others). It’s a very pleasant place to visit: many of the shops still boast their original Victorian frontages – so much so that it’s been unofficially re-christened Surbiton Village.
There’s more good news. Sam and his team will be taking over the gorgeous premises formerly occupied by the excellent Retro Bistrot in Teddington. Former owner Vincent is a regular at No 97 which – if you don’t believe me – should tell you just how good it is.
Booking recommended.
