A new restaurant in Surbiton offers hotel dining with an independent twist, Fiona Adams checks in
Warning: this review may contain mind-altering content! I don’t mean of the shocking, terrible variety but more in line with the sheer delight of discovering something rather unexpected.
Surbiton has recently become home to a new restaurant, Jack’s Kitchen, situated about 20 minutes’ walk from the station, on the Portsmouth Road on the ground floor of the Holiday Inn. Not the most glamorous of locations you may think but this is where I get to the mind-altering bit, because – hitherto – I must confess I have been a little prejudiced about hotel chain kitchens, but if Jack’s is anything to go by, I stand corrected.
Jack’s is located just off the main reception and bar area and is bright and airy with a modern vibe. It does have views of the river, though a little obscured by cars drawing up to the hotel, but there’s a pleasant atmosphere and the staff are attentive without being overbearing; crucially they also know the menu inside out.
And it is certainly the food, which is the real star of the show here. It is outstanding in its diversity. Being a bit of a health nut, who avoids gluten and carbs wherever possible, it was thoroughly refreshing to find a menu where – in the best possible way – I was struggling what to choose. Who’d have thought squid would go with crispy lentil noodles, for example? Genius.
There are snacks for the table, from spiced green olives and fennel seeds, to Padron peppers and spiced popcorn, as well as appetisers, which include classics such as smoked salmon and crab on buckwheat blinis (fresh and light) alongside the surprising: reshmi kebab, soft tandoor cooked chicken, encased in a delicate egg pancake, served with broccoli couscous and wild berry chutney.
This Indian influence weaves its way through chef Akshay Sabharwal’s menu like a glorious spicy thread with chicken tikka jhalfrezi, tandoori guinea fowl biryani and lamb shank madras amongst the main course highlights. There is fish: sesame crusted loin of tuna with sweet potato mash and roast cod fillet with a clam veloute (perfectly cooked with a crispy skin), as well as healthy veggie options, such as roasted butternut squash with grains, plus grilled chicken and pumpkin ravioli. If you fancy a steak, go for the marbled ribeye from Argentina, as recommended by our waitress
As for desserts… well, there was plenty of promise, including a deconstructed eton mess cheesecake with edible flowers, lychee marshmallow (toasted beautifully) with rose sponge and a pina colada pannacotta. A glass of Nederburg dessert wine meant I toddled off home happy and full and a little fuzzy around the edges.
The hotel’s food and beverage manager Rajiv Vallikappen told me that Jack’s Kitchen was keen to stand out as a foodie destination in its own right, independent of the Holiday Inn, and it absolutely should. Food is taken seriously here; it’s inventive, fresh and appetizing and there’s not a lot more you could wish for. So, why not take a stroll along the river and discover it for yourself?
For more information and to book online you can go to the Jack's Kitchen website by clicking here
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