A Surrey staycation, fit for royalty
2020 has been the year of the staycation and it looks to stay that way for at least a little while longer, but as luck would have it, a newly opened boutique hotel on the banks of the Thames in Hampton Court means that holidaying really can happen closer to home.
The Mitre (re)opened its doors in September this year; the Grade II-listed property dates back to 1665 and is widely reported to have been built at the direction of Charles II as a ‘hostel for visitors to the Palace’.
Set on the banks of the Thames, the 36-bedroom hotel has been beautifully refurbished by The Signet Collection – a band new hotel company created by seasoned hotelier and restaurateur Hector Ross (who was more recently at Beaverbrook).
We had literally just crossed the threshold when a glass of deliciously chilled white wine was thrust into my hand; all guests are welcomed with a drink, I am told. Already, I liked the place.
Interiors are modern but cosy, stylish and playful; period features are celebrated, there are witty royal nods throughout, alongside an incredibly pleasing mixture of colourful ceramics, clashing prints and stunning hand-painted wallpapers, all the work of design whizz Nicola Harding (whose other work includes Beaverbrook and The Rose Hotel in Deal).
No two bedrooms are the same and were shown to ours - ‘Palace’ - on the top floor.
Freshly baked biscuits welcomed us, hung in a little bag from the door, and again the aesthetics did not disappoint; the room was beautifully furnished, with a sweeping velvet chaise long, antique books and soothing colours.
The bathroom burst with pops of stylish colour and plenty of lovely toiletries.
On the dressing room table, I found a large bottle of King’s Ginger, provided for guests to enjoy; this rich and zesty liqueur was created to keep King Edward VII ‘warmed up’ during morning rides in his new horseless carriage (a Daimler, no less).
The views from the room are stunning – through three large windows we overlooked the magnificent Hampton Court Palace and its many chimneys, as well as Hampton Court Bridge and then the Thames stretched out before us. The noise of the A309, however, is not for the faint-hearted.
The rest of the hotel is a warren-like collection of handsome rooms and spaces to eat, drink and relax.
There is small ‘library’ exclusively for guests, where an honesty bar and jukebox await; elsewhere, there’s a beautifully bright and airy all-day restaurant and wine bar called The Coppernose (one of Henry VIII’s nicknames, I’m told) which is filled with colourful booths and banquettes.
Directly underneath is the more formal brasserie and bar, 1665 (the year the building was built), which is moodier and more sophisticated.
Both boast such incredible river views that at times it felt more like being on a beautiful boat than in a beautiful hotel.
There’s also a pretty, plant-filled Orangery (for private parties) and a vast riverside terrace, which when we visited was festooned in pretty fairy lights, with an outdoor bar and roaring fire pits.
There’s plenty to do nearby if you can bear to leave the gorgeousness of the hotel; river walks aplenty and Bushy Park is just down the road, but we chose to explore East Moseley’s high street; a delightful row of independent shops, cosy pubs and tempting restaurants, but we already had dinner plans, of course…
On the night we visited, 1665 was wonderfully buzzy and incredibly beautiful; Ronnie Kimbugwe, whose background includes over six years with the Gordon Ramsay group at Claridges, oversees the entire culinary vision at The Mitre.
We started with nibbles – the crispy cauliflower popcorn with teriyaki and soy was divine and dangerously moreish.
Then came a delicious and very generous helping of freshly picked crab with a beautifully balanced combination of harissa, spiced mayo, lime and apple.
The seared sashimi tuna and sesame crust with radishes, pickles and wasabi were also superb – lots of zingy flavours, buttery fish and it looked pretty as a picture too.
My main – lobster and prawn linguine al freddo with tomatoes, rocket and chilli - was less exciting; it lacked punch and, most disappointingly, lobster.
With dishes such as roasted Lincolnshire suckling pig with celeriac mash, apple and bacon chutney and truffle mayo on the menu, perhaps it served me right for playing it so safe.
The baked cod with Cornish mussels, steamed broccoli, cider and thyme broth, however, was a flavoursome and deeply satisfying dish – perfect for a chilly evening. For pudding, we shared a Hampton Court honey, apple and berry crumble with vanilla custard which was perfectly comforting.
Sadly, the curfew curtains soon came crashing down, but as we reluctantly headed for bed we discovered a small pop up ‘bar’ had been erected at the foot of the stairs leading up to the bedrooms, offering guests a nightcap to take up to their room…it is touches like this that makes The Mitre special.
The following day we enjoyed a good breakfast overlooking the Thames, before skipping over the road to Hampton Court Palace – 35 years a Londoner and I am ashamed to say I had never been.
It was mind-blowingly magnificent and rounded off our staycation perfectly. Less than 24 hours later and only 30 minutes from home, it really felt as though we had been away.
I could tell you about the glories of summer at the hotel; from the Whispering Angel rosé bar that overlooks the river to The Mitre’s very own boat that offers Champagne-fuelled cruises up and down the merry Thames.
But the truth is, it is just as wonderful in the winter.
The many small, stylish and thoughtful touches found throughout make it feel less of a hotel and more of a home. The food is excellent, the interiors beautiful, cosy and oh-so-inviting – The Mitre really is fit for royalty.
Rooms start at £120. The Mitre, Hampton Court Road, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9BN mitrehamptoncourt.com
