Tapas Brindisa
Battersea Power Station, Circus Road West, London SW11 8EZ
Every time I visit the new(ish) ‘Circus West Village’ at Battersea Power Station something new seems to have popped up, and the latest addition is a tasty slice of sunny Spain.
Tapas Brindisa Battersea opened its doors at the end of last year and joins the ranks of Brindisa’s four other London restaurants and tapas bars, as well as a shop in Borough Market and Spanish cheese and charcuterie deli in Balham. All this, plus a wholesale business and expansive online shop, has quite rightly earned Brindisa its reputation for being the home of delicious, authentic Spanish food in the UK.
The name Brindisa comes from the word ‘brindis’ which means to raise one’s glass in a toast – and it’s fair to say that we did a fair amount of that when we visited. Overlooking the river, the restaurant’s charming manager Horacio recommended that we start our evening with a chilled glass of Spanish Cava, which seemed a very sensible idea. To accompany the delicious fizz, we also had a bowl of Spain’s cult status Perelló Gordal olives, which the team at Battersea ingeniously hand-stuff with fresh orange and oregano.
We then turned our attention to the vast, mouth-watering menu; there are ‘Picoteo’ (nibbles), cured meats and cheeses, cold tapas, hot tapas plus salad and breads to choose from, and our friendly and efficient waitress helpfully informs that 3-4 dishes per person usually does the trick. With Horacio’s expert advice, we decided to stagger our order and start with a generous portion of Pimientos de Padrón (Galician padrón peppers), which were perfectly charred and delightfully salty.
During February and March Brindisa is celebrating Calçotada; a traditional Catalan festival that celebrates the famous calçot onion, so next we excitedly chose the Croquetas de Calcot y Ortiga; calçot and nettle croquettes with romesco sauce. Sadly, the concept of the festival was far more moving than the croquettes themselves, which were distinctly un-oniony and surprisingly bland.
Fortunately, this was quickly forgotten thanks to the arrival of the wonderfully aromatic Gambas al Ajillo (prawns, chilli, garlic and olive oil); the plump juicy prawns, soft garlic cloves and strips of dried chilli arrived hopping around in a dish of bubbling olive oil. It was, quite simply, delicious, and we mopped up every last bit with not one, but two portions of fresh bread. Next came the Arroz Negro (squid ink black rice) which again was bursting with flavour; the almost baked rice was rich with meaty pieces of squid and topped with a deliciously garlicky aioli sauce. The final dish was another triumph; a generous slice of fried Monte Enebro goat’s cheese (from legendary Spanish cheesemaker Rafael Baez), drizzled with orange blossom honey and beetroot crisps. The combination of creamy, slightly sour goats’ cheese and orange blossom honey was delectable, and the sweet beetroot crisps added a satisfying crunch.
When it came to wine, we went for the 2016 Pirineos from Somontano which complemented the rich tapas dishes perfectly. Brindisa’s entire wine list is Spanish, and there is, of course, a healthy selection of sherries to choose from, as well as cocktails, craft beer and more. The ever-obliging Horacio also gave us the chance to try some Orujo – a dangerously delicious creamy Spanish liqueur, similar to Baileys, which slipped down a treat.
It was a most delicious evening and the service was exceptional; the only thing slightly lacking was ambience, and that is no fault of the restaurant. These somewhat cavernous, brightly-lit new build spaces are very hard to fill with authentic atmosphere, but I suspect that in the warmer months, when the restaurant’s array of deliciously authentic tapas can be enjoyed al fresco on their (heated) terrace overlooking the Thames, is when this place will really come in to its own.
Before we disappear into the night, Horacio takes great pride in showing us the restaurant’s ‘Perrito Tapas Basket’ – perrito meaning puppy in Spanish. This neat, purpose-made wooden box contains a water bowl and a selection of treats for Battersea’s four-legged customers, and with South West London being a hotbed for cute canines, I see this as a genius move. So next time you fancy a stroll along the river why not pop in with your pooch – it seems that you’ll both be treated to some tasty tapas and a generous serving of authentic Spanish hospitality.
