Name: Review: The Percy Arms, Chilworth
Item: The Percy Arms
Author: Richard Davies

Local favourite for Sunday roasts

Surrey has some of Britain's finest pubs and most beautiful countryside, but how often do you successfully combine the two? In a new review series, Richard Davies sets out on a quest to find the perfect Sunday walk and lunch.

There can’t be many pubs where you queue up to be shown to your table, but that’s a fairly normal weekend at The Percy Arms in Chilworth, even in early January when most people are still nursing their liver and bank account.

Modelled on a South African hunting lodge, with stunning views towards St Martha’s Church and the North Downs, this pub/grill house has built a hugely loyal following for its authentic food and excellent service.

In the summer months, The Percy Arms is renowned for South African barbecues in its large beer garden, with the River Tillingbourne gently trickling through, a kiddie's play area and a giant safari-style canvas gazebo. But in the Winter, there’s a bit more competition for tables despite the deceptively large seating area.

Our verdict

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Food 5
Atmosphere 5
Value for money 5
Beer 4
Dog Friendly 4
Local walks 5

First impressions

Inside, the interior has been beautifully designed with great photos, artefacts and gorgeous fabrics that mix tartans, leather and bold animal prints in earthy hues to bring a little slice of ‘veldt’ to the Surrey Hills.

OK, I admit it, I really like the pub’s distinctive look and feel and the care that has clearly gone into it. I also love how efficient everything is and the sense of a strong team working together to provide a great customer experience.

Having been shown to our table, we were greeted by Deborah (one of the managers), who, with her husband Todd (one of the chefs), has been at The Percy for eighteen years. Deborah is completely unfazed when I confess that I’ve never much cared for ‘Percy Ale’, which is really Greene King’s best bitter in disguise – an ale I’d never opt for if there was any other option.

Sadly, the guest's local ale had sold out the night before, suggesting other customers may feel the same way.

All I can say is that the beer was well kept, but not to my taste (is it anyone’s?). Fortunately, the East Coast IPA was an acceptable alternative if you don’t mind paying the premium.

The food

When my daughter, recently back home from University, heard we were reviewing The Percy Arms, she insisted on joining us. As there were three of us, we thought that a South African sharing platter, for starters, wouldn’t be too ambitious (especially as I’ve been known in the past to have one all to myself). If you’re a braai devotee, it never disappoints.

Not only do you get a rack of ribs, chicken wings and a boerwors (SA farmer’s sausage), you also get a mini bobotie (a South African spicy version of a moussaka) in its own cast iron ramekin dish, a little pot of chakalaka (spicy bean stew) and another pot of monkeygland sauce (relax, this delicious bbq sauce contains no animal ingredients!).

The sharing platter was indeed sensational and would be plenty for four people to share.

For our main course, we went for the Sunday Roast Carvery. Now, carveries may be a bit ‘last century’, but Percy is doing a good job at bringing it back into fashion.

It’s not just the quality and range of meat available, but how the meat is cooked to perfection by chefs who really know how to prepare meat – with all the vegetables and extras that you can fit on your plate (though for obvious reasons, strictly NO sharing or doggie bags!) Our only quibble was that the Yorkshire Puddings were slightly soggy, which is really the problem with the Carvery concept, where food is pre-cooked and kept warm.

Despite feeling rather full, it felt rude not to try out the dessert menu, which includes a South African favourite, ‘Koeksusters’. These were sweet mini doughnuts served with ginger ice cream and perfect for sharing.

While The Percy Arms is clearly a haven for meat lovers, it also offers a limited selection of vegetarian and vegan options, including a vegan nut roast alternative for the Sunday carvery.

However, I do think that these are ‘alternatives’ rather than choices, given that there’s only really one veggie and one vegan option in each menu section.

Nearby walks

Dogs are certainly welcome in the pub but not in the restaurant area, and don’t expect anyone to make a fuss about your pooch. (Well, this is a hunting lodge, and dogs are supposed to be working animals!) But your doggie will definitely be delighted by the range of fantastic walks in the Chilworth area.

Behind the Percy Arms, you can explore the archaeological ruins of the Chilworth gunpowder mills, once owned by the East India Company, before hiking up to St Martha’s Church on the historic Pilgrims Way.

On the other side of the Dorking Road, you can get lost in the vast woodlands of Blackheath Common or even head out on the former Downs Link railway trail. All of these walking options are highly recommended to build the appetite you’ll need to enjoy The Percy Arms to the full!