The Drummond, Albury Review
When future historians write about the COVID era, I like to think that a chapter will be devoted to how it encouraged pubs to use their outdoor spaces more creatively.
Our verdict
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
The Drummond pub, Albury in the heart of the Surrey hills, is a perfect example – and no doubt why it’s a finalist in the Best Pub Garden category of the Great British Pub Awards 2023.
The garden’s location takes some beating, stretching toward the River Tillingbourne, a shallow, trickle-down stream where the kids can borrow a net to help control the population of that alien predator, the American crayfish.
Sitting by this gentle riverside with a book and a glass of wine is simply heavenly.
And if your mental picture of beer garden furnishings is splintery, guano-encrusted wooden benches with sodden, smelly ashtrays, then The Drummond is truly a revelation.
It has been designed to a very high standard, with herringbone paving and comfortable, modern seating.
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The Drummond at Albury Garden
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The Drummond at Albury Garden
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The Drummond at Albury Garden
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The Drummond at Albury
On one side by the car park is a permanent outdoor structure that is open on three sides with efficient, well-angled heaters that warm the space without convection-cooking the diners.
Deputy Manager Jacquie Boucher informs me that the roof can be fully opened to the elements at a flick of a switch.
There are also a good number of well-spaced tables, each with their own parasol and a long bench seating area, beside a long raised bed of hydrangeas ideal for selfie takers and instagrammers.
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Peach pubs, who own The Drummond, take great pride in sustainable, local sourcing and I’m happy to report that I enjoyed a perfect pint of Shere Drop from Dorking’s Surrey Hills brewery. (This was a great relief to my wife who well knows what a disastrous impact an indifferent pint can have on my mood.)
Firebird heritage and Old Speckled Hen were also on tap, as well as a good range of ‘fizzy’ beers.
Our starters arrived within minutes of ordering.
From the specials menu I chose Crispy Duck Egg with Chorizo and Tenderstem Broccoli with Bearnaise Sauce. This was a cleverly-disguised scotch egg, served open with a thin but tasty shell around a perfectly runny egg with chorizo providing a salty punch.
My wife had the Hand-picked Devonshire Crab, Cured Salmon, Apple and Cucumber, which she declared delightfully fresh with light, subtle flavours.
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Delicious main courses
Our main courses also arrived speedily.
I ordered – again from the special menu – the Pan-Fried Hake, New Potatoes, Rocket with Brown Butter.
The hake was decently-sized, with a crispy edible skin and the potatoes simply delicious when soaked in the buttery sauce.
My wife ordered the Fish Pie which arrived in a rectangular canteen with an unusual coating of tiny cuboid chips. The fish was tasty and plentiful with an extra ingredient of sweet cocktail onions.
Her verdict: ‘better than the one I make,’ was high praise indeed.
After a little break, we managed to find room for puds: my wife enjoyed the Summer Pudding with Blueberry Compote & Vanilla Ice Cream while I couldn’t resist the plate of seasonal British cheeses.
The Drummond itself
In case you have the impression of The Drummond being a beer garden with a pub attached, it’s worth mentioning that it also boasts several beautifully-designed indoor dining areas.
The overall capacity is 180 seats, which sounds huge, but the ambience is cosy and intimate because there are so many different rooms and spaces. Jacqui also gave us a show round of the accommodation: altogether there are 11 en suite boutique bedrooms, also furnished to a high standard.
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CASE EAMES Eames Photography
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CASE EAMES Eames Photography
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CASE EAMES Eames Photography
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CASE EAMES Eames Photography
Like all Peach pubs we have visited (including the nearby The Richard Onslow, Cranleigh and the Duke of Wellington, East Horsley), all the staff were smart, well-trained and friendly.
Clearly this is a company that cares about its employees and Jacquie was full of praise for a recent company away day, when all the pubs in the chain were closed for a day. OK, it was a Monday, but how many hospitality companies would bother?
Overall, we found little to fault about The Drummond, but for me, the covered seating is a bit too close to the rear ends of parked cars.
A lime hedge has been planted to separate them and I’m sure within a year or so, that will provide a decent screen.
Even so, I’d prefer not to dine next to where cars are reversing. Perhaps these spaces could be for electric vehicles only, as there’s a much larger parking area further ahead.
How much it costs
In terms of affordability, we thought the menu compared well with other local gastropubs with main course prices ranging from £15-£32.50. There’s also a good children's menu and kids with more discerning palates can enjoy half portions from the main menu at half price.
Reassuringly, a pint of Shere Drop is still comfortably under a fiver, which for customers like me, restores a little faith in the world.
What we ordered
- Crispy Duck Egg with Chorizo and Tenderstem Broccoli with Bearnaise sauce – £9.50
- Hand-picked Devonshire Crab, Cured Salmon, Apple and Cucumber – £12.50
- Pan-Fried Hake, New Potatoes, Rocket with Brown Butter – £23.50
- Fish Pie – King Prawn, Hake, Loch Trout, & Smoked Haddock, Butter Leaf Salad – £22.50
- Summer pudding with Blueberry Compote & Vanilla Ice Cream – £8
- Five seasonal British cheeses – £13.00
TOTAL (excluding drinks) – £89
