The females taking the food industry by storm
According to recent research, 29 percent of small businesses in the UK today are female owned. Passion, imagination, determination and diligence are just four of the attributes of the successful food entrepreneur. And the women on this page have them in spades. Abandoning secure corporate jobs and regular incomes, they have all embraced multi-tasking and unsociable hours to get their food enterprises off the ground.
Deana Luchia finds out what inspired four self-confessed foodies to start their own businesses...
Griselda Soames of Enchanting Bakes in Twickenham
With a background in media sales and marketing and a lifelong love of biscuits, Griselda Soames hit upon the ingenious idea of using biscuits as a marketing tool and set up Enchanting Bakes in 2017.
Her iced biscuits feature everything from company logos and business cards to book covers and QR codes. Clients include the BBC, Boots, L’Oréal, John Lewis, Goldman Sachs and numerous book publishers who choose to promote their authors’ books via the medium of an eye-catching biscuit.
"It’s a soft sell approach for companies to market their products," explains Griselda. "No one is miserable when they’re eating a biscuit!"
How did the idea arise?
"I love food – both cooking for people and eating it – and I knew that I wanted to do something related to it. Moreover, because of my name, I’m obsessed with personalised things – when I was growing up there was never going to be anything with Griselda on it. So I thought: 'Personalised biscuits, let’s give it a go.'" After years spent in large corporations, Griselda loves the flexibility of running her own business.
"I can do whatever I wish that day, whether it's baking, admin, promotion or sales. I was used to organisations with lots of staff and rules and regulations. Now, I get to decide whom I work with and what I want to do."
And her enthusiasm is infectious. "Food is an act of love," she says. "Love your product, work out how to get other people to love it and then get it to be commercial."
Roni Bandong of RoniB’s Kitchen in Walton-on-Thames
When I speak with Roni Bandong, she’s just back from ThaiFex, a food and beverage trade show in Thailand where she’s been promoting her award-winning Filipino food products: banana ketchup, BBQ sauces, oils, pastes, marmalade and jam.
Originally Roni worked in conferences and events. So, what inspired her to quit corporate life and become her own boss? "I’m a foodie who really wanted people to understand Filipino food and flavours," she says. "It’s all greatly underrepresented here. I saw a gap in the market and I decided to fill it."
Having moved to the UK from Manila 23 years ago, Roni launched her mission by running supper clubs with a friend, before branching out on her own with RoniB’s Kitchen. She began by selling her products at farmers markets – something she still does, despite the company’s success.
"Markets and festivals are my market research. Talking to customers is how I learn what they think, what they want. Also, when they tell me how much they love my products, it’s a nice validation."
And whilst the flavours are very much Filipino, the products themselves are British, insists Roni, who sources as many ingredients as possible from these shores.
As for the biggest seller, that would be her banana ketchup. "It’s probably weird for people here, but it’s been a staple in the Philippines since WWII and I grew up with it. It’s almost a heritage product for me."
Lizzie Marsh of The Abinger Cookery School in Abinger Hammer
Couples on a date night, retirees trying something new, teenagers learning how to cook before leaving home, friends celebrating a birthday: all these and more head to The Abinger Cookery School, near Dorking. Here they learn how to make everything from macarons to sushi, sourdough to dim sum.
"I love to see how much my clients enjoy the courses," says owner Lizzie Marsh. "They come not knowing what to expect. When they leave, having learnt all these new skills, they’re so happy."
Lizzie was already managing the school, in the village of Abinger Hammer, when the previous owner asked her if she wanted to buy it.
"I always loved food and was doing baking on the side," she says. "I was going to leave and start my own baking company, but the school was established and I thought: 'Let’s go for it.’"
Right now, the BBQ class is very popular, but there’s something for everyone: Pickling and Fermentation, the intriguingly named Dude Food Cookery Course, Christmas Canapes and the Children’s Cookery Course.
"It’s proper food, not simply pizzas and cupcakes. Children learn to cook next to their mum or dad and then eat something they’ve made themselves – often something their parents say they'd never eat at home." And does Lizzie still enjoy baking? "Of course! It’s my way of relaxing."
INGRID WEEL
Mandira Moitra Sarkar of Mandira’s Kitchen in Albury
Mandira Moitra Sarkar is a busy woman. Apart from selling frozen Indian meals (both online and from her shop), catering for private functions, and offering cookery lessons, she also runs a café next to the Silent Pool gin distillery in Albury, near Guildford.
"I came to England 25 years ago from India and worked in management consultancy for 17 years," she tells me. "I was always complaining about the lack of good Indian food and people started telling me to put my money where my mouth was. So eventually I started running supper clubs."
That was back in 2016. When the clubs proved a success, with many diners enquiring as to where they could order her food, Mandira asked local farm shops to stock her products.
"There was no great plan," she says. "It happened organically. Everything we make comes from recipes sent by my family via email, letter or phone. It’s food that millions of Indians eat."
Originally working from home, Mandira subsequently moved the growing company into its current premises, a derelict cowshed, and converted it into a commercial kitchen. Now Mandira’s Kitchen makes around 16,000 meals per month, the biggest seller being cashew chicken – a recipe of Mandira's mum.
Despite her burgeoning success, however, Mandira refuses to get carried away. "I don't feel that I've got there yet," she reflects. "I’m in my second innings [she is 53] and I just need to get on. I want to be the go-to company for Indian food in this country."
Marianna Hadjigeorgiou, owner of Orange Pekoe
Orange Pekoe opened on White Hart Lane in Barnes back in 2006, born from Marianna’s love for loose leaf tea and a passion to make it more accessible. Today, her beautiful and much-loved café and tea shop serves delicious lunches and brunches, celebrated afternoon teas, and a vast selection of premium tea sourced from around the world.
“As a woman in business, it’s hard to wear all the hats that society still expects - to be the supportive daughter, devoted mother, attentive wife, and caring friend, whilst also trying to focus on your business. You feel continuously torn no matter how hard you work, and the to do list never ends!” says Marianna.
“The sense of community that the tearoom has created is amazing. Tea is about bringing people together and supporting each other. I am so proud of my team and being part of the local community means everything to me.”
Sally Powell, owner of Culver+Nelson
East Sheen’s Culver+Nelson is a fantastic deli and shop that sells both the basics and specialist foods, all carefully curated by foodie aficionado, Sally. From locally baked bread, top grade eggs, refill nuts and grass-fed butter, to a tempting cheese counter, lovely wines, freshly prepared salads, sandwiches, and more, it is a friendly, one-stop-shop for deliciousness.
“I opened in early 2019, motivated by my lifelong love of good food and international food culture, but also by the fact that East Sheen at that point had no local, independent wide-ranging food shop, despite being such a gastronomic neighbourhood,” Sally explains.
“We had to shift our business model overnight when the first lockdown happened, but we have never looked back. I am very proud to have such a loyal, local set of customers as this is exactly what I set out to do - serve the local area and now they are at the very root of my business.”
c Paul Winch-Furness - Photographer
Rebecca Mascarenhas, restaurateur
With more than three decades of experience, Barnes resident Rebecca is one of the most respected restaurateurs in the industry. She owns the hugely popular Home SW15 and Flour + Water in Putney and co-owns some of the very best restaurants in London, including Elystan Street in Chelsea and Kitchen W8 in Kensington (both Michelin starred) and the truly terrific Church Road in Barnes.
“I’m very proud of being amongst the first female independent restaurateurs. Sally Clarke, Ruthie Rogers, Rose Gray and I all started out roughly around the same time, and even though I am not ‘the chef’ I am the principal player and have the key role in shaping each of the businesses,” says Rebecca.
“There’s nothing like the buzz of the restaurant business – I’m passionate about food and people, so it’s perfect for me. After all these years, I find my greatest joy is to see the careers of many men and women that I have mentored soar to great success.”
Al Camilleri-Lloyd, owner of The Fallow Deer
Small but mighty independent café The Fallow Deer is a much-loved landmark of Teddington High Street. Here, owner Al (also known as ‘mother deer’) and her team supply delicious brunches, lunches, homemade cakes, supper clubs and cocktail evenings, and pride themselves on top quality, carefully chosen ingredients, as well as using local produce and suppliers.
“After years working in advertising, I wanted a change and to do something in the area that I grew up in and love. I stumbled across a little cafe for sale and, after a ridiculously brief chat, decided to go for it. I quit my job that week and started making plans,” explains Al.
“It has been very challenging in different ways. Trying to juggle running a business as well as looking after my young twins has meant many sleepless nights. Plus, there are ever-changing trends, Brexit, and covid. I'm very proud of having been on the High Street for nearly ten years and to still be going from strength to strength. The whole Fallow team, old and new, work so incredibly hard and are like family to me, and many of our lovely regulars have become our friends.”
Ashly Rose
Louise Holme, co-founder of HolmeStores
Having rebranded and relocated after 8 successful years as The Dorking Deli (a smaller coffee shop and deli that Louise started in 2012). HolmeStores is a popular casual dining hotspot in Dorking, Surrey, with a brilliant all-day brunch menu, seasonal dishes, wood-fired oven, impressive organic wine list, British craft beers on tap, and more.
“The hospitality industry has always had its challenges, but it's a different ballgame after COVID. Cost increases, staff shortages and unpredictable customer demand challenge the business every day,” says Louise.
“Despite this, we're all proud of what we've achieved, and we're determined to achieve our goals by any means. We've created an awesome female-led kitchen team, gained a reputation for great customer service, and delicious fresh food all cooked from scratch – not a microwave in sight! We're also thankful to have built an amazing customer base who love what we do as much as we do!”
Kate Gregory, Managing Director and Master Distiller of the Gin Kitchen
The Gin Kitchen is an innovative distillery in the Surrey Hills, that crafts top-notch gin and exports it across three continents. Its beautiful ceramic bottles can be found both locally and in the likes of Fortnum and Mason, as well as at its very own distillery shop and cocktail bar.
“In January 2016, I was listening to a radio programme about distilling and had a flash of inspiration. I phoned my best friend, Helen, and told her that we were going to start a distillery. It started as an elaborate hobby, but soon got a life of its own and took off,” explains Kate.
“Like many businesses, we are finding staff shortages a challenge right now. As we're self-funded, we don't have a large marketing budget, so we rely on word of mouth to grow the business, but I'm so proud of the passion people have for our brand. Not only our staff, but our customers too.”
Danielle Webber, owner of Picky Bits
Picky Bits is a fun and modern Epsom-based catering business that has been revolutionising finger food since 2017. One of the pioneers of the grazing platter craze, Danielle specialises in creating beautiful buffets, picture-perfect platters and lavish lunches that not only taste fantastic but look incredible too (take a look at her Instagram @pickybits).
“After moving my raw cake business, Ripe & Nine, into a social club kitchen space back in 2017, Picky Bits was born completely by accident as I took on the clubs in-house catering. I never planned to have a catering company! It has been a rollercoaster ride so far and I'm loving it!” says Danielle.
“I'm up early to tackle a day’s work in the kitchen and usually working late to keep up with admin and enquiries. All while trying to squeeze in a social life, see family, exercise, eat well, and drink enough water! I’ve also just taken on a 10-year lease for a new premises with a shop front in Ewell, in the scariest time to do so, but I am determined to make it a success and I am really feeling the support of the local community right now.”
Sammi-Jo Gascoyne, founder of Blushing Cook
Based near Wimbledon, Blushing Cook creates utterly delicious, award-winning brownies and biscuits, hand-decorated with organic flowers, and delivers them to your door. Fans include Jamie Oliver and Nigel Slater, and the business recently collaborated with two Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Gavroche, working with Sammi-Jo’s former boss, Michel Roux Jr.
“When we first started, we took so many orders for postal brownies that we had to close the website! I worked through the nights, with my partner Simon helping all the way. I was overwhelmed, not just by the work, but by the support of everyone around me,’ says Sammi.
“I am proud of the hard work and persistence, along with the support from friends and loved ones. The real game changer was winning the Holly Tucker Awards. The prize money of £10,000 really helped take the business to the next level.”
Starting your own food business
Listen to the experts...
- There’s never a perfect time to start. If you have an idea, just go for it.
- Any business related to food means antisocial hours and rare days off. So be prepared!
- It’s never just about the food: sales and marketing are essential. If you can’t promote your product, running your own business isn’t for you.
- Taking your products to farmers markets and food festivals can be physically challenging, but it's an invaluable way of speaking to customers and getting honest feedback.
- Build a good team around you. Support them so that they, in turn, support you.
- You don’t have to hit the ground running. You can start slowly and take it step by step.
- Be passionate about your product. If you don’t love it, nor will your clients.
