Jane McGowan enjoys a quintessential countryside break with a twist at Karma Sanctum on the Green in Cookham Dean.
Cookham Dean is one of the southeast’s prettiest villages. Not only that, but it inspired Kenneth Grahame’s classic children’s story, Wind in the Willows.
And after taking a stroll around this quiet corner of Berkshire, it is easy to see why such a landscape evoked such a masterpiece.
Tucked away in one corner (just behind the village green) is the fittingly named Mole & Badger, a 17th-century coaching inn that would not look out of place in any BBC period drama.
However, behind the quintessentially English façade lies a bang-up-to-date hotel and Japanese-styled eaterie.
Now part of the Karma Group, the venue has been rebranded as the Karma Sanctum on the Green and adds that extra touch of opulence you would expect from the company that also runs Karma Sanctum Soho in the heart of London’s West End.
The inside
The venue has nine rooms in total, including three cosy standard rooms, five deluxe king rooms and the Royal Berkshire Suite, which features a super king bed, huge bathtub, and rain shower.
All rooms come complete with everything you need to ensure you enjoy a lovely night (or nights) away, including a wonderful walk-in rain shower, fluffy towels, organic toiletries, a state-of-the-art 4K TV system and of course, WiFi.
Myself and my guest – my-not-so-easy-to-please 17-year-old daughter - stayed in a deluxe king, which had a super comfortable bed (complete with crisp Egyptian cotton bed linen), a bedside tub and a poolside view.
Yes, there is a pool – which is fully heated and open to guests throughout the summer months. It is bordered by an extensive outdoor seating area, making it a great place to enjoy breakfast, coffee or a cocktail or two…
The compact yet well-thought-out room had enough space for us both to prepare for dinner, served just a few metres away in the main building.
The restaurant
Set to one side of the bar area, the informally-styled restaurant offers a welcoming feel while its contemporary décor belies little of the eastern delicacies on offer.
Given its age and location, it would have been easy for the Mole & Badger to follow the well-trodden path of a gastro pub, providing a traditional mix of ox cheek and sticky toffee pudding, but it is to its credit that it has stepped out of the country-inn comfort zone to bring diners something a little different.
The menu is based on a ‘new, casual Japanese dining concept by three-time Michelin star chef, Garry Hollihead’, following its successful launch in the group’s sister restaurant at Karma Sanctum Soho.
Staff are very attentive (yet not intrusive) and helped with suggestions to make the most of the options.
The starters
My daughter and I opted to share the Vegetable Gyoza as a starter. These delicate, almost melt-in-the-mouth, pan-fried dumplings came with an excellent Japanese dipping sauce, and once the main courses arrived, we were glad we had decided on just one starter.
The mains
I ordered the Salmon Teriyaki, which was accompanied by shredded white cabbage and sweet pickled ginger.
The aroma of the ginger arrived before the dish itself, which was a very hearty fillet of salmon sitting atop an even healthier portion of white rice. The flavours complemented each other perfectly.
My daughter chose a Chicken Katsu Curry – another substantial portion that came with white rice and a watercress garnish. Both plates were delicious, and luckily we had left just enough room to sample the desserts.
The dessert
Deciding once again to share… we were presented with a Vegan Chocolate Mousse (complete with coconut cream) and Mochi – a traditional Japanese sweet that has become the puddling de la jour courtesy of TikTok.
The mousse was outstanding and devoured in seconds. However, the Mochi – a cute round cake made from pounded rice, which in this instance was filled with ice cream - may be something of an acquired taste as the staff sympathetically acknowledged when they came to clear.
All this was washed down with a glass of Sauvignon blanc from the restaurant’s extensive and impressive wine list, followed by a G&T using the sumptuous Cookham Cocktail Club Gin – a bold spirit packed with juniper, pepper and citrus and curated locally.
After the first night's sleep
Following a wonderful night’s sleep and a stroll around the village to work up a bit of an appetite, we headed back to the restaurant for breakfast – a meal that more than set us up for the day.
Served between 8.30 am-10.30 am at the weekend, and 8.30 am -10 am, Monday to Friday, breakfast is a welcomingly relaxed affair.
The menu offers a great selection of morning fayre, including the ‘Grab & Go’ pastry and coffee combo (weekdays only) and a range of hot dishes suitable for both none and meat-eaters.
The breakfast
My daughter chose the Vegetarian Full English, which again delivered hearty helpings of sausages, beans, hash browns, and Portobello mushrooms.
I enjoyed a deliciously light yet flavoursome cheese omelette and both plates arrived promptly with steaming hot produce.
Check-out is midday, adding to the venue's calm and kicked-back nature, enabling guests to enjoy coffee al fresco on the extensive lawned area or to explore the village further.
Final thoughts
It is worth a visit to Bisham Woods, a nature reserve on the eastern edge of the village, or following the Wind in the Willows Walk, which takes in the wonderful landscape which served so well as a backdrop for Grahame’s novel as well as his former home.
Whether you plan a romantic weekend away, a catch-up with friends, or some precious time with family, the Karma Sanctum on the Green provides the ideal destination.
From the minute you arrive at the second you leave, your every comfort is catered for. For the staff, nothing is too much trouble while the understated luxury ensures you can relax in style.
Prices start at £99 for the deluxe room mid-week. For further details, visit karmagroup.com.
