Duke of Wellington Review
"With Britain’s pubs closing at the rate of nearly 10 a week, it’s refreshing to find a country pub restaurant that’s doing a stonkingly good trade."
Guildford Road, East Horsley, Leatherhead KT24 6AA. Get directions.
Our verdict:
At the Duke of Wellington in East Horsley, great food and a delightful, friendly service are clearly a winning combination.
The pub is also an architectural gem, with unusual flint and terracotta facings. For history buffs like me, it was redesigned in the mid-19th century by Charles Barry, whose other works include the Houses of Parliament.
The pub was then owned by the Earl of Lovelace (well, he owned the whole village.) These days he’s better known for being married to Ada (daughter of Lord Byron), who invented the first computer algorithm.
When we visited on a surprisingly sunny November Sunday afternoon to try out the new Autumn menu, the restaurant was packed.
Often this would mean queues at the bar, stressed-out staff and long waits for food to arrive. But not here.
The Duke of Wellington is that rare thing, a very well-run pub that really cares about its customers.
Our waitress, Holly, showed us to our table with a bright smile and confidently presented the specials menu.
OK, she knew we were there to write a review, but it was also clear that other customers received the same friendly welcome.
As an appetiser, we couldn’t resist the halloumi fries with bloody mary ketchup. They were crisp and delicious, the size of chunky chips.
For starters
For starters, we had monkfish tempura with a Vietnamese dipping sauce, mooli and pickled ginger. Again, these were generously sized with perfectly piquant accompaniments.
We also tried the potted pulled pork which came in a small kilner jar with golden beetroot piccalilli and chargrilled sourdough.
Although the pork was perhaps slightly underseasoned, the pickle gave it that extra zing.
The Sunday roast
Unlike some pub restaurants, there was a regular menu available in addition to the Sunday roast, but we couldn’t resist the latter. It didn’t disappoint.
The waitress asked my wife how she wanted her Aubrey Allen dry-aged rump of beef and it came pink as requested.
I went for the special lamb kleftiko in red wine, which fell off the bone and was succulent, without being too rich.
Both meals were served with roast parsnip and carrot spears, buttery leek and cabbage, roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and our own jug of gravy.
The special cauliflower cheese was perhaps an unnecessary though still welcome addition to a fine Sunday dinner.
With our meal, we enjoyed an excellent bottle of Kaiken Classico Malbec from the surprisingly extensive wine list.
Ale drinkers will be interested to know that the pub serves Shere Drop from the excellent local Surrey Hills brewery, as well as London Pride.
Final thoughts
Altogether, it’s hard to find fault with the Duke of Wellington as a pub restaurant.
The menu is well-conceived, with a good selection of vegetarian options (I was almost tempted by the Vegetarian Wellington with Artichoke heart, Spinach and Emmental).
Portion sizes are generous. Service is speedy from friendly staff who get the right balance of looking after you without being intrusive.
Getting it right in a pub this size that is this busy does not happen by accident. It is a tribute to Manager, Joe Dimmock and his team that they do such a good job. They deserve their success!
The final bill
Appetiser:
- Halloumi Fries & Bloody Mary Ketchup £6.45
Starters:
- Potted Pulled Pork, Golden Beetroot Piccalilli £8.75
- Monkfish Tempura, Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, Mooli & Pickled Ginger £11.75
Main
- Aubrey Allen’s Dry-aged Rump of Beef £18.00
- Roast of the Day - Lamb Kleftiko in Red Wine £25
- (Both are served with Roast Potatoes, Seasonal Vegetables, Roasted Roots, Yorkshire Pudding & Jugs of Gravy)
- Cauliflower cheese £5.00
Total £74.95
Visit their website to check out the menu for yourself, or book https://www.dukeofwellingtoneasthorsley.co.uk
