Convivial inns with fabulous food, mouthwatering ales and a great chance to walk it all off? It must be the Surrey Hills. Richard Davies plates up perfection...
As owners of an energetic dog, my wife and I spend a lot of our free time walking in the Surrey Hills and visiting local pubs. So, when commissioned to select the best of these high-class hostelries, we grabbed the chance to try out some recent recommendations, as well as to revisit old favourites.
All the pubs listed here were chosen for their consistently excellent customer reviews and their location close to great country walks. But unlike reviews based on internet search alone – you can do that for yourself – this feature benefits from the personal touch. We visited every pub, tasted the food, supped the ale and talked to the people in charge. You can read the reviews in full at essentialsurrey.co.uk.
With standards so high, we’ve had to draw some pretty fine distinctions between the various inns, picking out the most impressive attributes of each: location, food, ale or ambience on the day. Honestly, though, you can’t go wrong with any of these...
Anusha Stewart
Duke of Wellington, East Horsley
- Where to walk: Hidden in the hilly forests south of East Horsley is a wonderful trail of crisscrossing paths and stone bridges built by the Earl of Lovelace for his timber wagons. Some have been lovingly restored; others lie romantically overgrown. Take a couple of hours to find them all.
- Best for: Food, walking
The Duke of Wellington was once owned by the Earl of Lovelace, whose wife Ada (Lord Byron’s daughter) is widely held to have invented the first computer algorithm. It’s an architectural gem of flint and terracotta, designed by Sir Charles Barry, principal architect of the Houses of Parliament.
After a haloumi fries starter, we opted for the Aubrey Allen’s dry-aged rump of beef – which came perfectly pink, as requested – and the special lamb kleftiko in red wine, which was succulent without being too rich. Both meals were served with roast parsnip and carrot spears, buttery leek and cabbage, roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and our own jug of gravy.
Part of the superb Peach chain (which also includes The Drummond, Albury and The Richard Onslow, Cranleigh), the pub boasts a well-conceived menu with a good selection of vegetarian options. Portion sizes are generous, while the service is speedy from friendly staff looking after you without intrusive.
The Cyder House Inn, Shackleford
- Where to walk: Full marks to the team for providing three guided walks with downloadable PDFs on the website: a two-mile stroll along the local lanes, plus three- and five-mile hikes on the paths and tracks around this ancient village replete with charming medieval buildings.
- Best for: Beer, walking
Less than five minutes from the A3 Hurtmore exit lies the charming rural village of Shackleford. Landlord couple Shaun and Chelsey took over the Cyder House lease five years ago and are steadily turning it into a homely, friendly pub.
As befits the name, there’s a huge range of ciders available, while the bar manager, James, brought a tear to my eye by reciting a long list of mainly local guest ales. Those I sampled were exceptionally well-kept.
The impressive menu includes interesting Asian and South African influences and a good range of veggie options. We chose the striploin of beef and a roast beef and pork duo; both served with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, giant crispy Yorkshire puddings, seasonal vegetables, and unlimited gravy. The beef was lean and perfectly medium rare, and the pork was delicious—though the trimmings didn’t compare to home cooking.
The White Horse, Hascombe
- Where to walk: The White Horse lies in prime walking country, right on the Greensand Way and nestled below Hascombe Hill with its Iron Age fort. It’s also very close to the popular Winkworth Arboretum, run by the National Trust.
- Best for: Beer, walking, food
The White Horse is that most precious thing: a real pub serving great food – and in one of the prettiest villages in the Surrey Hills. It has recently joined the Young’s stable, and the Ordinary Bitter was the best I’ve tasted in a while.
Manager Ed Kenny is proud to run “an accessible village pub that enjoys fantastic local support”. There’s a real sense of ambition here, with plans to introduce the inn’s own dry-aged meat and more locally sourced produce. Moreover, along with a dedicated bar area, there’s a wonderful garden in which to while away a summer’s afternoon.
On the day we visited, whole roasted pheasant was available, but we chose the cider-braised pork belly and special lamb shank. Both lamb and pork were perfectly cooked and well presented, with tasty gravy, and the Yorkshires were spot on—though we’d have preferred our vegetables less finely chopped and shredded.
The Victoria, Oxshott
- Where to walk: Head to nearby Prince’s Coverts, a Crown Estate managed woodland that few locals know. Alternatively, you can enjoy the stunning heathland of Esher Commons – even if the constant hum from the A3 reminds you that you’re firmly in the commuter belt.
- Best for: Food, ambience
Already with a longstanding reputation for great food, Victoria Oxshott has stepped boldly into gastropub territory under its new owners. The Sunday lunch menu, curated by Culinary Director Matt Larcombe—previously head chef for Hester Blumenthal at The Crown in Bray—proved the perfect example of how to offer enough, but not too much, choice.
After a cheeky plate of oysters with our drinks, we ordered the Herdwick lamb leg and the Cumbrian saddleback pork belly; both served with seasonal vegetables, triple-cooked roast potatoes, and Yorkshire pudding. The lamb was perfectly pink and tender, while the pork was a good, thick, tasty portion. Roast potatoes were crisp, fluffy, and freshly cooked. Cauliflower cheese and extra gravy came without asking.
As far as pub food goes, the Victoria is as close to fine dining as it gets, and – kudos to Head of Hospitality Simon King (formerly of the Ramsay group and The Fat Duck in Bray) – the interior is an Instagrammer’s delight.
Of course, this quality comes at a premium, and ale lovers may feel that the emphasis is now more on ‘gastro’ than ‘pub’.
The King William IV, Mickleham
- Where to walk: The pub’s website has various options, ranging from the demanding eight-mile Box Hill hike to ‘flatter’ options along the River Mole or a visit to the nearby Denbies Wine Estate.
- Best for: Food, walking
The King William IV – known affectionately as King Bill on the Hill – sits alongside a footpath leading steeply up towards Box Hill. Despite its regal title, it’s a wonderfully unpretentious pub, offering fresh food cooked to a high standard, served by a friendly team.
There are stunning views over Norbury Park and the Mole Valley, close to where the Surrey Hills Brewery makes its award-winning Shere Drop ale. As landlord Eamonn Carroll likes to say, the beer doesn’t have far to travel. And a very fine drop it is too!
We had the slow-roasted shoulder of lamb and the 28-day-aged Surrey Hills beef, both served with roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, fresh veg, and a superb homemade gravy. It’s rare to find a pub Sunday roast that outclasses home-cooked food, but we did here. The lamb was melt-in-the-mouth tender, the beef perfectly pink, and the trimmings excellent.
A word of warning, though: with its many steps and levels, the pub may not be suitable for mobility-challenged customers or parents with prams.
The Percy Arms, Chilworth
- Where to walk: Explore the archaeological ruins of the Chilworth Gunpowder Mills, before hiking up to St Martha’s Church on the historic Pilgrims Way. Or cross Dorking Road to get lost in the woods of Blackheath Common.
- Best for: food, walking, ambience
Styled as a South African hunting lodge, The Percy Arms is renowned for braai barbecues in its large beer garden. A stream trickles gently through the garden, and there are stunning views towards the North Downs.
Sunday carveries may sound a bit dated, but the Percy is doing a great job bringing them back into fashion. It’s not just the quality and range of meat, but it’s cooked to perfection – with all the vegetables and extras you can fit on your plate.
As an alternative to a roast, the South African sharing platter is hard to beat: ribs, chicken, boerewors, bobotie and chakalaka (a spicy bean stew), with special ‘monkey gland sauce’ (not actually made from monkeys!).
Sadly, the house Percy Ale is a disguised Greene King, but local guest ales are usually available. Also, the menu may be a bit limited for veggies.
